{"id":43289,"date":"2026-10-24T10:00:00","date_gmt":"2026-10-24T08:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/realiza-facilmente-litofanias-con-tu-impresora-3d-en-3dwork-io\/"},"modified":"2026-10-24T11:15:48","modified_gmt":"2026-10-24T09:15:48","slug":"realiza-facilmente-litofanias-con-tu-impresora-3d-en-3dwork-io","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/realiza-facilmente-litofanias-con-tu-impresora-3d-en-3dwork-io\/","title":{"rendered":"HueForge and Lithophane Guide: How to 3D Print Classic and Color Lithophanes"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">One of the most curious things we can do with our 3D printers is make what are known as <strong>lithophanes<\/strong>. The technique is nothing new and has been around for quite some time. Still, machining tools and, later, the rise of 3D printing seem to have brought it back to life.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">For those of you who don&#8217;t know what lithophanes are, the idea is to shine a light through a semi-transparent sheet on which a volume has been modeled beforehand. It is basically similar to making a height map with <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.autodesk.es\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer nofollow\" class=\"external\">3DSMax<\/a><\/strong>. If you have used that software, you will know exactly what I am talking about.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The point of the process is that, once printed, and depending on its thickness, the model (or lithophane) lets more or less light through its surface. Held up to the light, it shows the image we want, or at least that is the theory \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Two things have changed since we wrote this article in 2019. You no longer need to model anything in 3D software to get the STL (we have a web tool for that, further down), and <strong>HueForge<\/strong> has appeared: a different take on the lithophane that produces color images and needs no light behind it. We have expanded the guide with thickness, orientation, backlighting and the most common failures of classic lithophanes, plus a full section on HueForge. We have kept the original text.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">This guide gathers the usual community guidelines and the software&#8217;s own documentation. The figures in the new sections are reference values, not measurements of our own; when a figure is unclear or varies from case to case, we say so.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-rank-math-toc-block\" id=\"rank-math-toc\"><h2>Table of Contents<\/h2><nav><ul><li><a href=\"#historia\">Lithophanes: a bit of history<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#preparando\">Preparing lithophanes with your 3D printer<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#herramienta-tools\">Creating the lithophane with the 3Dwork web tool<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#grosor\">Lithophane thickness: how thin and how thick<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#imprimir-litofania\">How to print the lithophane: orientation, layers and filament<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#luz-de-fondo\">The backlight: type, distance and diffuser<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#problemas\">Common lithophane problems and how to avoid them<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#litofania-cmyk\">A third way: the CMYK color lithophane<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#hueforge\">HueForge: color lithophanes without a backlight<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#clasica-vs-hueforge\">Classic lithophane, CMYK or HueForge: which to choose<\/a><\/li><li><a href=\"#faq\">Frequently asked questions about lithophanes and HueForge<\/a><\/li><\/ul><\/nav><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"historia\">Lithophanes: a bit of history<\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"960\" height=\"1110\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-de-porcelana-sobre-soporte-CC0-Metropolitan-Museum-v-a-Wikimedia-Commons.jpg\" alt=\"Porcelain lithophane on a wooden stand showing a scene of two figures in relief\" class=\"wp-image-43270\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-de-porcelana-sobre-soporte-CC0-Metropolitan-Museum-v-a-Wikimedia-Commons.jpg 960w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-de-porcelana-sobre-soporte-CC0-Metropolitan-Museum-v-a-Wikimedia-Commons-259x300.jpg 259w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-de-porcelana-sobre-soporte-CC0-Metropolitan-Museum-v-a-Wikimedia-Commons-886x1024.jpg 886w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-de-porcelana-sobre-soporte-CC0-Metropolitan-Museum-v-a-Wikimedia-Commons-768x888.jpg 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-de-porcelana-sobre-soporte-CC0-Metropolitan-Museum-v-a-Wikimedia-Commons-450x520.jpg 450w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-de-porcelana-sobre-soporte-CC0-Metropolitan-Museum-v-a-Wikimedia-Commons-780x902.jpg 780w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Porcelain lithophane on a stand. Public domain (CC0) image from the <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Lithophane_MET_176389.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer nofollow\" class=\"external\">Metropolitan Museum, via Wikimedia Commons<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The word lithophane comes from Greek and is made up of &#8220;lithos&#8221;, meaning stone, and &#8220;phainein&#8221;, meaning &#8220;to make appear suddenly&#8221;. Put together, the two words roughly mean &#8220;appearing in stone&#8221; or &#8220;light in stone&#8221;, because when a light source shines through from behind, a three-dimensional image shows up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-5.jpg\" alt=\"Easily make lithophanes with your 3D printer at 3DWork.io\" class=\"borde wp-image-20798\" width=\"615\" height=\"461\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-5.jpg 615w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-5-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-5-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-5-585x439.jpg 585w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 615px) 100vw, 615px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In the past, making a lithophane could seem a lot more complicated. They were works of art engraved or molded in translucent porcelain. First, a carving was made in hot wax on a backlit glass pane. That way the craftsman had constant light while carving and could glimpse the resulting image in real time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Their uses were many and varied: plaques to hang in windows, candle screens, night lights, matchboxes, tea warmers. Others were worked into beer steins and teacups.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Today, <strong>making lithophanes with 3D printing<\/strong> is a very simple process that is within almost everyone&#8217;s reach, as long as you have a 3D printer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"preparando\"><strong>Preparing lithophanes with your 3D printer<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"780\" height=\"520\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-portada-de-la-gu-a-de-Sovol-imagen-de-Sovol.jpg\" alt=\"Cover of a lithophane guide with a backlit framed photo and a printed example\" class=\"wp-image-43273\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-portada-de-la-gu-a-de-Sovol-imagen-de-Sovol.jpg 780w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-portada-de-la-gu-a-de-Sovol-imagen-de-Sovol-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-portada-de-la-gu-a-de-Sovol-imagen-de-Sovol-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-portada-de-la-gu-a-de-Sovol-imagen-de-Sovol-450x300.jpg 450w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 780px) 100vw, 780px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Image: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.sovol3d.com\/blogs\/news\/how-to-3d-print-a-lithophane-a-beginners-guide-to-turning-photos-into-light-art\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer nofollow\" class=\"external\">Sovol<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Creating lithophanes is quite simple, so let&#8217;s get to work.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Preparing the image<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">To make lithophanes from images, it is well worth using high-resolution photos. The higher the resolution of our photos, the better the quality of the lithophanes we generate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">We should also discard blurry or poorly lit photos, for obvious reasons. Basically, we need acceptable contrast between the background and the figures (or people) we want to capture in our future lithophane.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The first thing we will do is convert the photograph to grayscale. Any image editing software will do. One of my favorites, and completely free, is <a href=\"https:\/\/gimp.es\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer nofollow\" class=\"external\"><strong>GIMP<\/strong><\/a>, but each to their own, so use whichever you like. If you use GIMP, load the image and go to the menu <strong>Image -&gt; Mode -&gt; Grayscale<\/strong>. It couldn&#8217;t be easier.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-2.jpg\" alt=\"Image, Mode, Grayscale menu in GIMP to prepare the lithophane photo\" class=\"borde wp-image-20742\" width=\"1048\" height=\"599\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-2.jpg 1048w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-2-300x171.jpg 300w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-2-1024x585.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-2-768x439.jpg 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-2-585x334.jpg 585w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1048px) 100vw, 1048px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The next step is to slightly increase the contrast of the photo (between lights and darks), which will improve the resulting lithophane. In GIMP you can find this option in the menu <strong>Colors -&gt; Brightness-Contrast<\/strong>. There you can play with the balance of both and see your changes in real time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Finally, we export the image file so we can load it into the lithophane generator. It is best to use JPG for its compression and low quality loss.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-4.jpg\" alt=\"Adjusting the brightness and contrast of the image before generating the lithophane\" class=\"borde wp-image-20778\" width=\"1018\" height=\"242\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-4.jpg 1018w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-4-300x71.jpg 300w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-4-768x183.jpg 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-4-585x139.jpg 585w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1018px) 100vw, 1018px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Choosing the right photo: what matters most for the result<\/h4>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A lithophane turns brightness into thickness, so a photo with flat lighting ends up as a flat gray rectangle. A pale face in front of a light wall has almost no tonal separation to work with. Portraits, pets and architecture with hard light work well, while crowded group photos, backlit silhouettes and low-resolution phone crops work badly.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Here is a quick test before you upload anything: convert the image to grayscale and look at it at thumbnail size. If the subject is still recognizable, it will print well; if it turns into a blob, pick another photo. Also, a background with a lot of fine detail disappears when backlit, and the subject should be brighter than the background.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">As for cropping, it is the most important improvement: the generator samples a fixed grid of points whatever the final size, so every pixel spent on empty background is detail you lose on the face or the figure. It is also a good idea to crop the photo to the proportions of the frame where it will go (for example 1:1) before uploading it.<\/p>\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Image resolution and size<\/h4>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">As a rough guide to resolution: at least about 1000 pixels on the long side, and 2048 pixels as the most a lithophane can really make use of, so a larger image adds no extra detail. Our original text only says &#8220;high resolution&#8221; without a number, and we do not give DPI figures.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">For the physical size of the piece, our original recommendation of a minimum of 100 mm is a good starting point: the usual approach is to start at around 100 mm and print a half-scale test panel first. A small test uses little material and tells you whether the contrast and thickness work before you launch a print that can take many hours.<\/p>\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Contrast: edit beforehand or adjust in the generator<\/h4>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">There are two ways to handle contrast. In our original text we slightly increase the contrast in the image editor, as we do with GIMP in the screenshots above. The alternative is to leave brightness and contrast alone in the editor and do it inside the generator, because there you see the brightness map and the histogram in real time. What you want to avoid is tones piling up against one end: pushed against black, the dark areas merge into a solid block that no light passes through; pushed against white, the detail in the highlights is lost, and no printer setting will bring it back.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Our practical suggestion is to make a light edit and check the result in the generator&#8217;s preview. If you see the tones piling up at one end, correct it there. We do not have a comparison of our own that says which of the two methods gives the better result.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Lithophane generator (<a href=\"https:\/\/3DWork.io\/litofania\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">https:\/\/3DWork.io\/litofania<\/a>)<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Once the image is ready, we go to the lithophane generator available at <a href=\"https:\/\/3DWork.io\/litofania\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><strong>3DWork.io<\/strong><\/a>. Keep in mind that the link is only available in the desktop version of the web; you won&#8217;t be able to access it from a mobile phone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">To do so, click the <a href=\"https:\/\/3DWork.io\/litofania\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\"><strong>Lithophane Generator<\/strong><\/a> link, and you will reach the generation module, which opens in a new browser window.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Lithophane settings<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Once inside the lithophane generator, you will see different types of lithophanes at the bottom of the software. The ideal and recommended approach is to start with the <strong>Flat model<\/strong> and, once you have some experience, try the other types of lithophanes available.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The first step is to upload the image we want to print. So, without further ado, we go to the top, where the main menu is, and press the <strong>Images<\/strong> button. Once pressed, a section opens where you can easily drag and drop the image to load it into the application.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It is worth noting that you can upload more than one image at a time, so that afterwards you only need to click on the one you want to generate the lithophane from. This takes you to the <strong>Model<\/strong> section of the application, which is where we preview how our work is going to look.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Finally, we also have 3 sections (drop-down menu) to configure how the lithophane is created, called <strong>Settings<\/strong>. Below you will find a description of the most interesting parameters to configure:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h5 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Configuration parameters<\/h5>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Model Settings<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Maximum size (MM):<\/strong> maximum size of the lithophane (recommended minimum 100 mm)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Thickness (MM):<\/strong> thickness of the lithophane (3 mm recommended)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Border (MM):<\/strong> option that adds a border to the lithophane (0 disables it)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Thinnest layer (MM):<\/strong> sets the thinnest layer of the print<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Vectors per pixel:<\/strong> vectors per pixel (9 recommended; if it fails, enter a lower value)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Base\/Stand Depth:<\/strong> depth of the support base (0 disables it)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Image Settings<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Positive\/Negative image:<\/strong> lets you switch between positive and negative (use positive)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Mirror image:<\/strong> option to mirror our image<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Manual refresh:<\/strong> automatic refresh, or refresh when you press <strong>Image<\/strong><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Repeat X count:<\/strong> clones the image along the X axis several times<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Repeat Y count:<\/strong> clones the image along the Y axis several times<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Last but not least, don&#8217;t forget to press the <strong>Refresh<\/strong> button every time you change any of the parameters so they update and you can see the changes you have made.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Downloading the generated file<\/h4>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignleft size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-7.jpg\" alt=\"Easily make lithophanes with your 3D printer at 3DWork.io\" class=\"borde wp-image-20811\" width=\"1391\" height=\"600\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-7.jpg 1391w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-7-300x129.jpg 300w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-7-1024x442.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-7-768x331.jpg 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-7-585x252.jpg 585w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1391px) 100vw, 1391px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">After configuring all the parameters you want and refreshing the model on screen (<strong>Refresh<\/strong>), you simply download the STL file by pressing the <strong>Download<\/strong> button.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">This generated file is compatible with every slicer on the market, so you can import it and generate the G-code for printing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Printing the lithophane<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">After downloading the file and copying it to the memory card, all that is left is to send the model to print. However, to make the lithophane as realistic as possible, it is a good idea to create your own profile on your printer with a few modified parameters.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-8.jpg\" alt=\"Easily make lithophanes with your 3D printer at 3DWork.io\" class=\"borde wp-image-20818\" width=\"1550\" height=\"753\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-8.jpg 1550w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-8-300x146.jpg 300w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-8-1024x497.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-8-768x373.jpg 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-8-1536x746.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-8-585x284.jpg 585w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1550px) 100vw, 1550px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Here are some recommended values for printing your lithophane using Simplify3D (although you can find them in any other slicer). Other values may work better with your machine, but this is a good starting point to begin experimenting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Primary layer height<\/strong>: 0.1<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>First layer height:<\/strong> 150%<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Top solid layers:<\/strong> 4<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Bottom solid layers:<\/strong> 4<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Infill percentage:<\/strong> 100%<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Infill pattern:<\/strong> Grid<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Print speed:<\/strong> 30 mm\/s<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Skirt\/Brim:<\/strong> 4 mm<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"herramienta-tools\">Creating the lithophane with the 3Dwork web tool<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">If you don&#8217;t want to model the relief in 3DSMax or any other modeling program, the <a href=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/tools\/3d-tools\/index.html#litho\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">3Dwork.io tools<\/a> section has a lithophane tool. It is a web-based alternative: you upload the image, adjust the parameters, preview the result and download the model.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The file it exports is a <strong>solid STL<\/strong>, so you open it in your slicer like any other model, generate the G-code and print it. The image preparation (grayscale, contrast and JPG export) is still the same as we explained above, and the print values in the list above work as a starting point.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"grosor\">Lithophane thickness: how thin and how thick<\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1152\" height=\"864\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-enmarcada-con-luz-de-fondo-imagen-de-3D-Lithophane.jpg\" alt=\"Framed lithophane with a backlight showing a family portrait\" class=\"wp-image-43277\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-enmarcada-con-luz-de-fondo-imagen-de-3D-Lithophane.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-enmarcada-con-luz-de-fondo-imagen-de-3D-Lithophane-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-enmarcada-con-luz-de-fondo-imagen-de-3D-Lithophane-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-enmarcada-con-luz-de-fondo-imagen-de-3D-Lithophane-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-enmarcada-con-luz-de-fondo-imagen-de-3D-Lithophane-280x210.jpg 280w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-enmarcada-con-luz-de-fondo-imagen-de-3D-Lithophane-560x420.jpg 560w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-enmarcada-con-luz-de-fondo-imagen-de-3D-Lithophane-450x338.jpg 450w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-enmarcada-con-luz-de-fondo-imagen-de-3D-Lithophane-780x585.jpg 780w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1152px) 100vw, 1152px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Image: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.3d-lithophane.com\/guide.php\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer nofollow\" class=\"external\">3D-Lithophane.com<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Thickness is the parameter that shapes the lithophane the most: thin areas let more light through and look bright, while thick areas block it and look dark. That is why generators always have a maximum thickness (the shadows) and a minimum thickness (the highlights).<\/p>\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Maximum thickness:<\/strong> between 3 and 4 mm is typical. Our generator recommends 3 mm, which is also the default value in many free generators.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Minimum thickness:<\/strong> between 0.6 and 0.8 mm in the brightest areas. 0.8 mm is a common default, and it is best not to go below about 0.5 mm, because below that the light does not pass through cleanly.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Relation to the nozzle:<\/strong> the minimum thickness should be above a multiple of the nozzle diameter. There is no specific figure, so with a 0.4 mm nozzle, a 0.8 mm minimum is a reasonable starting point.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Cut-out silhouettes:<\/strong> a slightly higher minimum of 0.8 mm is recommended so the edges are sturdy.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Puzzle-type lithophanes:<\/strong> a minimum of 1.2 mm or more and pieces larger than about 15 mm are advisable, because protrusions that coincide with very thin bright areas break.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Contrast does not come from a magic number but from the <strong>ratio between the thinnest and the thickest point<\/strong>. In addition, the fraction of light that passes through the material drops exponentially as thickness increases. In practice this means that small thickness changes in the thin part move the highlights a lot, so it pays to adjust the range carefully.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Not all filaments behave the same either. One spool of white PLA may let light through at 2 mm while another keeps glowing at 4 mm. To find where your filament&#8217;s limit is, the useful thing is to print a stepped test strip, from 0.6 to 3.2 mm in 10 steps, and see at which thickness it looks blown out to white and at which it turns opaque black. It is a cheap test that we recommend if you are going to make several pieces from the same spool.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">If the lithophane comes out without contrast, it usually lacks range: raise the maximum thickness or widen the gap between minimum and maximum. If it comes out too dark, the panel is too thick or the filament too opaque: lower the maximum thickness or use a stronger light.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The <strong>Thinnest layer<\/strong> parameter of our generator, which we explained above, sets exactly that thinnest layer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"imprimir-litofania\">How to print the lithophane: orientation, layers and filament<\/h2>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The Simplify3D values from the original part of the guide are still a good starting point. Today&#8217;s usual guidelines agree on almost everything and add some details worth keeping in mind.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Orientation: standing up, not lying flat<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The usual approach is to print the flat lithophane <strong>standing up<\/strong>, like a photo frame, with the image facing forward, so that the Z-axis resolution renders the relief accurately. It is printed on its long edge and without supports, and some degree of tilt is also acceptable.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Lying flat on the bed is only recommended as an exception: for silhouettes and very large panels, and for the CMYK color lithophane, which we cover below. Because a tall, thin piece standing on its edge wobbles, it is a good idea to secure the base with a brim or a wide skirt, or even a <em>raft<\/em>. Our original list already includes a 4 mm brim.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Layer height, infill, speed and fan<\/h3>\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Layer height:<\/strong> 0.1 mm in our original list. You can go down to 0.08 mm for more detail and smoother tones, and 0.12 mm is another common option. Use thinner layers than usual, with the first one slightly thicker.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>100% infill:<\/strong> solid and rectilinear is the usual choice, because any internal gap lets light through unevenly. Our original list uses Grid. There is also a different alternative: no wall perimeters with 100% infill, or more than 3 perimeters with 0% infill. We haven&#8217;t tried it, and to be safe we stick with the 100% option.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Top and bottom layers:<\/strong> 4 and 4 in our original list; 3 and 3 is also a common value.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Speed:<\/strong> slow. 30 mm\/s in our original list; between 30 and 40 mm\/s is typical, and you can drop to 25 mm\/s on the outer walls. It is especially important to go slowly on the thin layers.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Fan:<\/strong> 100% is the usual setting. There is no more precise reference percentage.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Nozzle:<\/strong> a 0.4 mm nozzle works for the monochrome lithophane, and there is no need to go down to 0.2 mm. The 0.2 mm nozzle is only recommended for CMYK color lithophanes.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Filament: white PLA<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">White PLA is the classic choice because it diffuses light well, and ivory or natural also works. Dark, translucent or glitter filaments are discouraged because they ruin the contrast: a dark color blocks the light and flattens the image.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"luz-de-fondo\">The backlight: type, distance and diffuser<\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"960\" height=\"1222\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-retroiluminada-Elke-Wetzig-CC-BY-SA-3.jpg\" alt=\"Backlit porcelain lithophane with a scene of a military figure, seen with the light switched on behind it\" class=\"wp-image-43268\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-retroiluminada-Elke-Wetzig-CC-BY-SA-3.jpg 960w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-retroiluminada-Elke-Wetzig-CC-BY-SA-3-236x300.jpg 236w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-retroiluminada-Elke-Wetzig-CC-BY-SA-3-804x1024.jpg 804w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-retroiluminada-Elke-Wetzig-CC-BY-SA-3-768x978.jpg 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-retroiluminada-Elke-Wetzig-CC-BY-SA-3-450x573.jpg 450w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Litofan-a-retroiluminada-Elke-Wetzig-CC-BY-SA-3-780x993.jpg 780w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Backlit lithophane. Photo by Elke Wetzig (Elya), <a href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/File:Lithophanie1_durchlicht.jpg\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer nofollow\" class=\"external\">CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A lithophane without a light behind it is just a pale panel with relief. These are the usual guidelines for lighting it.<\/p>\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Type of light:<\/strong> low-voltage LED. USB or battery-powered LED strips, LED panels, light boxes or even window light all work. For lamps (cylinders, cubes, globes), use low-heat LEDs and never incandescent bulbs, because PLA softens with heat.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Light color:<\/strong> cool or neutral white light is the one that shows the most contrast. There is no reference color temperature in kelvin.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Diffuse, even light:<\/strong> no hard shadows or hot spots.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Distance:<\/strong> if the LED is too close and concentrated, a bright spot appears in the center. Leave an air gap between the strip and the panel, or move the strip farther back inside the frame. If the center is still brighter than the edges, add a diffuser sheet. There is no exact distance in millimeters for a flat frame: you adjust it until the hot spot disappears. The only common figure is for double lithophanes, where an inner gap of 5 to 15 mm is enough.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Safety:<\/strong> keep the heat source away from the plastic, ventilate the enclosure and avoid open flames. A homemade lithophane is decorative lighting, not a certified lamp.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Frame or light box:<\/strong> a common solution is a frame with an LED backlight plate and a printed diffuser (<em>light guide plate<\/em>), for example for 144 &times; 108 mm panels. There are also slotted stands, folding easels and lamp covers. Our generator includes <strong>Base\/Stand Depth<\/strong> so the piece can stand on its own.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">There is no reference figure for the light power needed (lumens, watts per meter) to get through 3 or 4 mm of PLA. If you are unsure, a test with a small panel and a cheap LED strip will tell you faster than any table.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"problemas\">Common lithophane problems and how to avoid them<\/h2>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">These are the most common failures, with their likely cause and what to do about them.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Areas that are too thin or details that disappear<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cause: a minimum thickness below what the material allows, or strokes narrower than the nozzle can extrude (the slicer skips them). Fix: don&#8217;t go below about 0.5 mm and stay between 0.6 and 0.8 mm; for silhouettes, raise it to 0.8 mm; for letters or fine strokes, increase the scale or thicken the strokes.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Flat shadows and lack of tonal separation<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cause: a photo with flat lighting, or with a background the same tone as the subject, or tones merged into a single dark block. Fix: choose photos with hard light and a clean background, adjust the contrast and check in the preview that the tones don&#8217;t pile up against the black end.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Washed-out image with no contrast<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cause: too narrow a range between the minimum and maximum thickness, or a filament that is too translucent for the chosen thickness. Fix: widen the gap between the two, raise the maximum thickness and, if needed, use a purer white or calibrate your filament with the stepped strip.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Image too dark<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cause: a panel that is too thick, a very opaque filament or not enough backlight. Fix: lower the maximum thickness, raise brightness or gamma in the generator, or use a stronger light.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Visible layer lines<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cause: layers that are too thick or speed that is too high. Fix: lower the layer height to 0.08 or 0.10 mm and the speed to about 30 or 40 mm\/s.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Blotches or uneven brightness<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Cause: infill below 100%, which leaves gaps that let light leak through unevenly. Fix: solid 100% infill. The bright spot in the center is fixed by moving the LED back or using a diffuser, as we explained in the lighting section.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Breakage, warping and wobbling<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Breakage shows up in very thin bright areas or areas under mechanical stress, and is avoided with a higher minimum thickness and a solid base. Heat deformation comes from hot bulbs or from putting the plastic too close to the heat source: use low-heat LEDs, ventilation and an air gap. Wobbling of a tall, thin piece standing on its edge is avoided with a brim or <em>raft<\/em> and a well-leveled first layer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"litofania-cmyk\">A third way: the CMYK color lithophane<\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"900\" height=\"900\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Filamentos-CMYK-para-litofan-a-imagen-de-Bambu-Lab.jpg\" alt=\"Four spools of cyan, magenta, yellow and white filament for CMYK printing\" class=\"wp-image-43275\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Filamentos-CMYK-para-litofan-a-imagen-de-Bambu-Lab.jpg 900w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Filamentos-CMYK-para-litofan-a-imagen-de-Bambu-Lab-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Filamentos-CMYK-para-litofan-a-imagen-de-Bambu-Lab-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Filamentos-CMYK-para-litofan-a-imagen-de-Bambu-Lab-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Filamentos-CMYK-para-litofan-a-imagen-de-Bambu-Lab-450x450.jpg 450w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Filamentos-CMYK-para-litofan-a-imagen-de-Bambu-Lab-780x780.jpg 780w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Image: <a href=\"https:\/\/wiki.bambulab.com\/en\/knowledge-sharing\/cmyk-color-lithophane-printing-instructions\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer nofollow\" class=\"external\">Bambu Lab<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">There is a middle ground between the classic lithophane and HueForge: a color lithophane that is still backlit. Here is a summary of how it works:<\/p>\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>It uses four PLA filaments: cyan, magenta, yellow and white. There is no black; the dark areas come from the thickness of the white placed behind.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>It is printed <strong>lying flat<\/strong>, with the color side face down against the plate. The first layers lay down thin sheets of cyan, magenta and yellow, and the white relief is printed behind them, controlling how much light passes through.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The usual settings are a 0.2 mm nozzle, a 0.15 mm first layer, 100% rectilinear infill and 3 top and bottom layers. Another variant asks for the first layer to be the same height as the others so as not to alter the colors, and with a 0.2 mm nozzle you can go down to 0.08 mm.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>It is viewed in a frame with a printed diffuser and an LED plate.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">We haven&#8217;t tried this technique. We mention it so you know it exists and that, unlike HueForge, it still needs a light behind it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"hueforge\">HueForge: color lithophanes without a backlight<\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2524\" height=\"2522\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-pieza-HueForge-con-capas-de-filamento-imagen-de-HueForge.jpg\" alt=\"Relief piece with a front-facing tiger, with layers of filament in different colors visible\" class=\"wp-image-43281\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-pieza-HueForge-con-capas-de-filamento-imagen-de-HueForge.jpg 2524w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-pieza-HueForge-con-capas-de-filamento-imagen-de-HueForge-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-pieza-HueForge-con-capas-de-filamento-imagen-de-HueForge-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-pieza-HueForge-con-capas-de-filamento-imagen-de-HueForge-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-pieza-HueForge-con-capas-de-filamento-imagen-de-HueForge-768x767.jpg 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-pieza-HueForge-con-capas-de-filamento-imagen-de-HueForge-1536x1536.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-pieza-HueForge-con-capas-de-filamento-imagen-de-HueForge-2048x2046.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-pieza-HueForge-con-capas-de-filamento-imagen-de-HueForge-450x450.jpg 450w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-pieza-HueForge-con-capas-de-filamento-imagen-de-HueForge-780x779.jpg 780w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-pieza-HueForge-con-capas-de-filamento-imagen-de-HueForge-1600x1599.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2524px) 100vw, 2524px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Image: <a href=\"https:\/\/shop.thehueforge.com\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer nofollow\" class=\"external\">HueForge<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">There is another way to turn an image into a printed piece, called <strong>HueForge<\/strong>. Here is a summary of how it works. We haven&#8217;t printed any HueForge piece for this article, so what follows are common guidelines and not a test of our own.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">If you want to try it without installing anything, the HueForge mode of our web tool is at <a href=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/tools\/3d-tools\/index.html#hue\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">this link<\/a>. As we are improving the tools, some settings may change.<\/p>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1500\" height=\"930\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-apilado-de-filamentos-por-capas-gr-fico-3Dwork.png\" alt=\"Diagram of filaments stacked by layers in a HueForge lithophane, with the height of each change\" class=\"wp-image-43263\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-apilado-de-filamentos-por-capas-gr-fico-3Dwork.png 1500w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-apilado-de-filamentos-por-capas-gr-fico-3Dwork-300x186.png 300w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-apilado-de-filamentos-por-capas-gr-fico-3Dwork-1024x635.png 1024w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-apilado-de-filamentos-por-capas-gr-fico-3Dwork-768x476.png 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-apilado-de-filamentos-por-capas-gr-fico-3Dwork-450x279.png 450w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-apilado-de-filamentos-por-capas-gr-fico-3Dwork-780x484.png 780w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">3Dwork&#8217;s own chart using data from a project exported with our tool: 0.08 mm layers and filament changes at 1.28, 1.84 and 2.24 mm.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What HueForge is and why it doesn&#8217;t need a backlight<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">HueForge works like a painting made with filament. Instead of varying the thickness of a single sheet so that more or less light passes through, you stack layers of filaments in different colors, and the thickness of each one defines the color we see at each point of the image. The result is a color image viewed by reflected light, like a painting. That is why no backlight is needed.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The software calculates how much light passes through each layer and shows a live preview of what will come out of the printer. Internally it converts the image to luminance values: dark areas get a low relief and bright areas a high relief.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Transmission distance (TD)<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Each filament lets a different amount of light through. That property is the <strong>transmission distance<\/strong>, or TD: it tells you at what thickness a filament stops letting you see what is underneath. A high TD means a more translucent filament, which needs more thickness to cover the layers below. A low TD is an almost opaque filament.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It is the figure the program uses to calculate how colors blend across layers. Adjusting the TD of each filament you plan to use is one of the steps of the workflow.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">As orders of magnitude, by way of example: a low TD, between 0.1 and 1 mm, corresponds to a very opaque filament that covers the color below in one or two layers, useful for black backgrounds or crisp outlines. A high TD, from 4 to 10 mm or more, is a translucent filament that gives smooth gradients and rich blends. The program&#8217;s filament library includes brands that are already calibrated.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">If you want to adjust the TD of a filament that is not in the library, you can measure it with an accessory called TD-1. Another method is to print a test model that comes with the program (<em>step test<\/em>), with a black base 1.04 mm high and the filament to be measured on top. You then compare the real piece with the program window and move the TD slider until the two match.<\/p>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1500\" height=\"840\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-distancia-de-transmisi-n-frente-a-altura-de-la-pieza-gr-fico-3Dwork.png\" alt=\"Chart of the transmission distance of four filaments against the height of a 2.28 mm piece\" class=\"wp-image-43265\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-distancia-de-transmisi-n-frente-a-altura-de-la-pieza-gr-fico-3Dwork.png 1500w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-distancia-de-transmisi-n-frente-a-altura-de-la-pieza-gr-fico-3Dwork-300x168.png 300w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-distancia-de-transmisi-n-frente-a-altura-de-la-pieza-gr-fico-3Dwork-1024x573.png 1024w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-distancia-de-transmisi-n-frente-a-altura-de-la-pieza-gr-fico-3Dwork-768x430.png 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-distancia-de-transmisi-n-frente-a-altura-de-la-pieza-gr-fico-3Dwork-450x252.png 450w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/HueForge-distancia-de-transmisi-n-frente-a-altura-de-la-pieza-gr-fico-3Dwork-780x437.png 780w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1500px) 100vw, 1500px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">3Dwork&#8217;s own chart: if a filament&#8217;s TD is greater than the height of the piece, the color comes out more muted than in the preview.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Preparing the image for HueForge<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">HueForge imports JPEG or PNG images. If all you want is a figure or a silhouette, it is a good idea to cut out the subject in an editor and save it as a PNG with a transparent background. That way HueForge generates only the relief of the object and not a square plate around it. The final width and height are set afterwards in millimeters, in the general options, to fit your printer&#8217;s bed.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Workflow, step by step<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The process is this:<\/p>\n\n\n<ol class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Import the image in JPEG or PNG.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Assign filaments to the colors of the image.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Adjust the TD of each filament.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Export the G-code, which includes filament change notices at the layers where a change is needed.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Each step in more detail:<\/p>\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Import the image<\/strong> and set the final size in millimeters.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Choose the filaments<\/strong> from the library (the program lets you mark the spools you own so they show up first) and drag them onto the color sliders.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Order the stack:<\/strong> the usual rule is the darkest color at the bottom, normally black as the base of the shadows, and the lightest at the top, normally white for the highlights. You can change the tone of the shadows with a base of another color.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Adjust the sliders<\/strong> to decide up to which layer each color is printed. It helps to hold down the middle mouse button to get a more faithful preview of the real blend while you move them.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Check the total thickness:<\/strong> HueForge lithophanes are usually between 1.5 and 2.5 mm thick. Below 1 mm the piece is flimsy; raising the base geometry from 0.48 to 0.72 mm gives it some stiffness.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Save the project.<\/strong> It generates an STL, a description file (<em>describe.txt<\/em>) with each filament, the layer and the exact height of the change, and a HueForge project file. A plugin also lets you export to 3MF.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Slicer settings<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In the slicer (OrcaSlicer, Bambu Studio, PrusaSlicer or Cura) you need to respect what HueForge specifies:<\/p>\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>First layer height and layer height equal to those in the program. By default, 0.16 mm for the first layer and 0.08 mm for the rest.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>100% rectilinear infill, so there are no gaps under the color layers.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>A single wall, or the minimum number of perimeters.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Rectilinear or monotonic top surface pattern, which hides the lines in large dark areas.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>No supports.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How filaments are changed during the print<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Because the image is built by stacking colors, the printer has to change filament at specific layers. The exported G-code marks those points with change notices, and the filament is swapped at them. With a single-extruder printer, that change is handled manually, by adding it from the slicer itself. With a multicolor printer the process will be different, and we have no data of our own for that case.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">The details of the manual change:<\/p>\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>In OrcaSlicer or PrusaSlicer,<\/strong> you drag the layer slider to the height given in the description file, right-click the + icon and choose to add custom G-code with <code>M600<\/code>, or a pause.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>In Cura,<\/strong> through Extensions, Post Processing and Modify G-Code, you add the filament change or pause script at a given height, entering the layer number.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>On the printer,<\/strong> when it reaches the layer the head moves aside, you remove the old filament, purge the new one until it comes out clean and press resume.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Firmware requirements:<\/strong> in Marlin you need to enable <em>Nozzle Park<\/em> and <em>Advanced Pause Feature<\/em>, and in Klipper you need to include the <code>M600<\/code> macro.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>With multi-material systems<\/strong> (Bambu AMS, MMU and similar), in Bambu Studio or OrcaSlicer you right-click the layer slider, choose to change filament and specify the slot. The system makes the changes on its own.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">The effect of layer thickness<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Because color depends on the thickness of each filament layer, layer height directly affects the result. A common comparison is between 0.04 mm and 0.08 mm layers. In principle, a thinner layer allows smaller thickness steps and therefore more gradual color transitions, at the cost of more print time. It is a good idea to do a small test with your own combination of filaments before launching the big piece.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Specifically: 0.08 mm is the standard value with a 0.4 mm nozzle, and moving to 0.04 mm improves blending and the smoothness of gradients, something you notice mostly in details seen up close. You can use 0.04 mm even with a 0.4 mm nozzle, but check that the slicer is not limiting the minimum layer height in the extruder settings. A 0.2 mm nozzle is better if you want very sharp horizontal detail.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">As for time, there is no comparison of the same model at both heights, only isolated cases: a thin piece of moderate size takes a little over an hour at 0.04 mm, other models about 5 hours, and a TPU example with several tools took 9 hours and 7 minutes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">A TPU case: dry the filament first<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A common HueForge example with TPU. The recommendation is to dry the filament before printing, because damp TPU is ruined. If you use another material, also check how much moisture it tolerates before printing.<\/p>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Damp TPU produces a lot of <em>stringing<\/em> and ruins the clean lines that painting with filament requires. To dry it, use a filament dryer or, as an alternative, an oven. We don&#8217;t have the drying temperature or hours, so we can&#8217;t give them here. Check the recommendations of your spool&#8217;s manufacturer.<\/p>\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1200\" height=\"612\" src=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-HueForge-con-TPU-loro-impreso-imagen-de-Snapmaker.png\" alt=\"Parrot printed in TPU using the HueForge method, with the colors in layers\" class=\"wp-image-43283\" title=\"- -\" srcset=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-HueForge-con-TPU-loro-impreso-imagen-de-Snapmaker.png 1200w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-HueForge-con-TPU-loro-impreso-imagen-de-Snapmaker-300x153.png 300w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-HueForge-con-TPU-loro-impreso-imagen-de-Snapmaker-1024x522.png 1024w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-HueForge-con-TPU-loro-impreso-imagen-de-Snapmaker-768x392.png 768w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-HueForge-con-TPU-loro-impreso-imagen-de-Snapmaker-450x230.png 450w, https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/Ejemplo-de-HueForge-con-TPU-loro-impreso-imagen-de-Snapmaker-780x398.png 780w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1200px) 100vw, 1200px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Image: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.snapmaker.com\/blog\/hueforge-3d-printing\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer nofollow\" class=\"external\">Snapmaker<\/a>.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What printer you need<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">HueForge works on practically any FDM printer, from a single-extruder one to multi-material systems. The essential thing is that the machine can pause to change the filament. It is also recommended to have flow, <em>pressure advance<\/em> and retraction calibrated so the fine details don&#8217;t suffer. HueForge is paid software, and selling the pieces requires a commercial license; we don&#8217;t give figures because they change.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"clasica-vs-hueforge\">Classic lithophane, CMYK or HueForge: which to choose<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">All three methods end up as an image made of filament, but they look different and ask different things of the printer and of the place where the piece will go. Before choosing, it helps to know how they differ and what you give up with each one.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Classic lithophane<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A sheet of a single filament, usually white PLA, where each area has a different thickness. With a light behind it, the thin areas let more light through and look bright, and the thick ones look dark.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Pros:<\/strong> a single filament, a straightforward workflow, free generators and many possible shapes: panels, lamps, cylinders, globes and light boxes.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Cons:<\/strong> without a light behind it, it is a pale panel with relief, there is no color, and printing is slow, with thin layers and often many hours. You also have to get the thickness and the light right.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Best for:<\/strong> high-contrast photographs (portraits, pets, architecture with hard light) that will go in a window, a frame with a light or a lamp.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">CMYK lithophane<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A middle ground: a color lithophane that is still backlit. It uses four filaments (cyan, magenta, yellow and white), is printed lying flat with the color sheets in the first layers, and the white relief behind controls how much light passes through. As we said in its section, this is a technique we haven&#8217;t tried ourselves, so what follows is what can be inferred from how it works.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Pros:<\/strong> gives color with a backlight and limits the material to four filaments.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Cons:<\/strong> it still needs a light behind it and a 0.2 mm nozzle.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Best for:<\/strong> color images that will be backlit and where you want to stick to four materials.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">HueForge<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A color image built by stacking layers of different filaments, where the thickness of each layer defines the color seen at each point. It is viewed by reflected light, like a painting, and needs no light behind it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Pros:<\/strong> color without a backlight, thin pieces that print lying flat and little filament use.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Cons:<\/strong> a steeper learning curve (sliders, palette and TD), filament changes during the print, flat panels only and paid software, with a commercial license if you sell the pieces.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Best for:<\/strong> illustrations, digital art, posters and stylized portraits with a recognizable palette and clean backgrounds, to hang on the wall.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Which one to choose<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>High-contrast photo, backlight and a single filament:<\/strong> classic lithophane.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>You want a lamp, a cylinder or a globe:<\/strong> classic lithophane, because it is the only one that supports those shapes.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Color image, with a backlight and limited to four filaments:<\/strong> CMYK lithophane, knowing that we haven&#8217;t tried it.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Color picture to hang, with no light behind it:<\/strong> HueForge.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Illustration or stylized portrait with a defined palette:<\/strong> HueForge.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Your printer can&#8217;t pause to change filament:<\/strong> classic lithophane; HueForge needs it.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">If you want to try without installing anything, you can generate the STL of a classic lithophane with the <a href=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/tools\/3d-tools\/index.html#litho\">3Dwork Lithophane Tool<\/a>, and prepare a color project for HueForge with the <a href=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/tools\/3d-tools\/index.html#hue\">HueForge Mode of the 3Dwork tool<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"faq\">Frequently asked questions about lithophanes and HueForge<\/h2>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What thickness is best for a lithophane?<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It depends on your filament, but the usual starting point is between 3 and 4 mm of maximum thickness and between 0.6 and 0.8 mm of minimum, without going below about 0.5 mm. A small test panel or a stepped strip tells you the range of your spool.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Should a lithophane be printed standing up or lying flat?<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Standing up, like a photo frame. Lying flat only for silhouettes, very large panels and the CMYK color lithophane. A brim helps stop it from wobbling.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What light should I use behind a lithophane?<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">A low-heat LED light, diffuse and even, and preferably cool or neutral white. Never incandescent bulbs, because PLA softens. There is no reference power or exact distance, and the distance is adjusted until the central bright spot disappears.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Does HueForge need a backlight?<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">No. It is viewed by reflected light, like a painting, because the image is formed by stacking layers of colored filaments.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">What is the difference between printing HueForge at 0.04 and 0.08 mm?<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It is usually stated that 0.08 mm is the standard value with a 0.4 mm nozzle, and that 0.04 mm improves the smoothness of gradients at the cost of more time. Our recommendation is to do a small test with your filaments before deciding.<\/p>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Do I need to dry the filament for HueForge?<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It is an important step with TPU, because damp TPU produces a lot of <em>stringing<\/em>. There is no reference temperature or hours, so follow the instructions of your spool&#8217;s manufacturer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">We hope this article serves as a reference for printing lithophanes, and feel free to leave your impressions in the comments at the end of it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"p1 wp-block-paragraph\">Other <strong>printing guides<\/strong> you may find interesting,<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/litofanias-con-tu-impresora-3d\">Easily make lithophanes with your 3D printer at 3DWork.io<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/manual-de-simplify3d\/\">Simplify3D manual, starting from scratch<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/extrusion-multiplier-todo-lo-que-necesitas-saber\/\" data-wpel-link=\"internal\">Extrusion Multiplier, everything you need to know about it<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/extrusion-width\/\" data-wpel-link=\"internal\">The Extrusion Width parameter, the great forgotten one<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/guia-para-convertir-archivos-gcode-a-stl\/\" data-wpel-link=\"internal\">Guide to converting GCODE files to STL<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/insertos-metalicos-en-impresion-3d-5-consejos-practicos\/\" data-wpel-link=\"internal\">Metal inserts in 3D printing (5 practical tips)<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/problema-de-oozing-guia-para-solucionarlo-definitivamente\/\" data-wpel-link=\"internal\">Oozing problem? A guide to fixing it for good<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/warping-en-abs-guia-completa-para-solucionarlo-definitivamente\/\" data-wpel-link=\"internal\">Warping in ABS: complete guide to fixing it for good<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>One of the most curious things we can do with our 3D printers is make what are known as lithophanes. The technique is nothing new and has been around for quite some time. Still, machining tools and, later, the rise of 3D printing seem to have brought it back to life. For those of you [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":40815,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[3226],"tags":[6611,6612,6613,6606],"class_list":["post-43289","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","category-printing-guides","tag-bambu-studio","tag-litofanias","tag-orcaslicer","tag-prusaslicer"],"uagb_featured_image_src":{"full":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1.jpg",1980,945,false],"thumbnail":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1-150x150.jpg",150,150,true],"medium":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1-300x143.jpg",300,143,true],"medium_large":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1-768x367.jpg",768,367,true],"large":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1-1024x489.jpg",1024,489,true],"1536x1536":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1-1536x733.jpg",1536,733,true],"2048x2048":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1.jpg",1980,945,false],"pixwell_370x250":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1.jpg",370,177,false],"pixwell_370x250-2x":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1.jpg",740,353,false],"pixwell_370x250-3x":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1.jpg",1110,530,false],"pixwell_280x210":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1.jpg",280,134,false],"pixwell_280x210-2x":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1.jpg",560,267,false],"pixwell_400x450":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1.jpg",400,191,false],"pixwell_400x600":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1.jpg",400,191,false],"pixwell_450x0":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1.jpg",450,215,false],"pixwell_780x0":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1.jpg",780,372,false],"pixwell_780x0-2x":["https:\/\/3dwork.io\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/litofania-1.jpg",1600,764,false]},"uagb_author_info":{"display_name":"JJR","author_link":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/author\/juanjo\/"},"uagb_comment_info":0,"uagb_excerpt":"One of the most curious things we can do with our 3D printers is make what are known as lithophanes. The technique is nothing new and has been around for quite some time. Still, machining tools and, later, the rise of 3D printing seem to have brought it back to life. For those of you&hellip;","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/43289","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/6"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=43289"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/43289\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":43297,"href":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/43289\/revisions\/43297"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/40815"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=43289"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=43289"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/3dwork.io\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=43289"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}