CHITUBOX 2026: Complete Guide — Download, Configure and Slice Resin

If you own a resin printer, you’re going to need CHITUBOX sooner or later. At 3Dwork we’ve used it in our daily testing for years, and in this guide we cover everything you need to know: from download to sending your first file to the printer, including every parameter that actually matters.

What is CHITUBOX?

CHITUBOX is a slicer built specifically for resin printers (SLA, MSLA and DLP). A slicer does one thing: converts your 3D model into layers the printer can execute, generating the file that controls each UV exposure layer by layer. Without it, the printer has nothing to work with.

Unlike FDM slicers like Cura or PrusaSlicer, CHITUBOX is designed for the specific challenges of resin printing: generating supports that hold without ruining the part, detecting floating islands before a print fails, controlling FEP film peel-off and tuning exposure times that make the difference between a perfect part and a disaster.

The industry standard

CHITUBOX supports over 200 printer models from Anycubic, Elegoo, Creality, Phrozen, NOVA3D, Voxelab, Flashforge and many more. If your printer is from a well-known brand, its profile is already included.

CHITUBOX 2026: the unified platform

In September 2025, CHITUBOX merged Basic and Pro into a single application with three access tiers. The current version is v1.2.1 (March 2026). If you had CHITUBOX Basic 2.x or the old Pro installed, this version replaces everything.

CHITUBOX dark theme interface — unified platform v1.2.1 — CHITUBOX v1.2.1 — the new graphics engine is noticeably faster and the dark theme reduces eye strain in long sessions

Performance improvements vs old versions

Function	Improvement
Island detection	up to 88× faster
Overhang detection	up to 34× faster
Model loading	up to 13× faster
File saving	up to 5× faster
Support pre-processing	up to 10× faster

Chitu Systems internal benchmarks — the difference is especially noticeable on high-polygon models

Don’t download from Mega or third-party links

There are hundreds of links in forums with 1.6.x versions that haven’t been updated in months. The only official download is chitubox.com. Any other link is an outdated version.

Basic, Advanced and Pro: which do you need?

The question we always get. Honest answer: for 95% of users, Basic is more than enough. It’s free and has everything you need to print well. Paid tiers add features for professional or multi-printer workflows.

Feature	Basic (Free)	Advanced ($9.99/mo)	Pro ($15.99/mo)
Auto support	✅ Basic	✅ Magic Support	✅ Magic Support + Batch
Island detection	✅	✅	✅
Hollow and drain	✅	✅	✅
Anti-aliasing	✅	✅	✅
LAN transfer	✅	✅	✅
Multi-Platform (multiple printers)	❌	✅ up to 100	✅
Advanced mesh repair	Basic	Basic	✅ Triple success
Multi-parameter by zone	❌	❌	✅
ChituAction (macros)	❌	❌	✅
Pro formats (STEP, IGES, GLB…)	❌	❌	✅
Annual price	Free	$99/year	$169/year

CHITUBOX 2026 tier comparison

3Dwork tip: start with Basic

Don’t pay until you genuinely need a paid feature. Basic includes auto support, island detection, hollow, drain holes, anti-aliasing and LAN transfer — everything you need to print well. Upgrade to Advanced only if you manage multiple printers; to Pro if you need automation with ChituAction.

How to download and install CHITUBOX

Go directly to chitubox.com/download and download the installer for your OS: Windows, macOS or Ubuntu Linux.

🔗 Download CHITUBOX Basic — free (Windows / macOS / Ubuntu)
🔗 Download CHITUBOX Pro — 7-day free trial, no restrictions

Step 1: Run the downloaded installer. If Windows shows “Windows protected your PC”, click “More info” → “Run anyway”.

CHITUBOX Windows installation step 2 — accept licence

Step 2: Accept the licence agreement. Basic is free for personal and commercial use.

CHITUBOX Windows installation step 3 — installation path

Step 3: Choose the installation path. The default works perfectly — don’t change it unless you have a specific reason.

CHITUBOX Windows installation step 4 — installing

Step 4: The installer copies files. Takes 1–3 minutes depending on your system.

CHITUBOX Windows installation step 5 — complete

Step 5: Installation complete. Check “Launch CHITUBOX” to open it directly.

Download the .dmg and drag the icon to the Applications folder. No wizard needed. If macOS says it can’t verify the developer, go to System Settings → Privacy & Security → Open Anyway. Ubuntu Linux is also available from the same download page.

System requirements

	Minimum	Recommended
CPU	Intel i5-6600K / AMD Ryzen 5 1600	Intel i7-4790 / AMD Ryzen 7 2700X
RAM	16 GB	32 GB or more
GPU VRAM	1 GB	4 GB or more
Storage	10 GB free	SSD with 20+ GB
OS	Windows 10 64-bit / macOS / Ubuntu	Windows 10/11 64-bit

First setup: add your printer

The first time you open CHITUBOX it asks you to add a printer. This is critical: the printer profile defines the build volume, screen resolution and output format. The wrong profile = a file your printer can’t use.

Open CHITUBOX for the first time. The setup wizard appears.
Click “Add Printer”.
Search for your printer by name (e.g. “Elegoo Saturn 4”) or browse by brand.
Select the exact model and click “Save”.
CHITUBOX automatically loads the official profile with the manufacturer’s base parameters.

Can’t find your printer?

If your model is very new or from a small brand, create a custom printer profile. You need: screen resolution (XY pixels), build area size (mm) and output format (check the manual). Most current MSLA printers use .ctb.

CHITUBOX main interface with printer configured — CHITUBOX with your printer configured — the active profile appears in the top-right corner

The CHITUBOX interface explained

It looks complex at first but has a clear logic. Here’s what each area does:

CHITUBOX light theme interface — Light theme interface — identical layout to the dark theme, just a different visual style

Top bar: File, Edit, Settings. Also the active printer selector and ChituManager button.
Centre toolbar: move, rotate, scale, copy, mirror and auto-orient.
3D viewport (centre): right-click = rotate camera. Scroll = zoom. Middle-click = pan.
Right panel — Supports: automatic and manual support settings.
Right panel — Slice: all slicing parameters. The most important panel.
Bottom bar: part dimensions, estimated time and resin consumption.
Slice button: starts slicing. After that, review layer-by-layer before exporting.

Complete workflow: from 3D model to print file

This is the order we follow at 3Dwork. Don’t skip steps — each one depends on the previous.

Step 1 — Import and orient the model

Drag your STL, OBJ or 3MF into the window. Orientation is the most important decision in the entire process. A bad orientation can ruin a perfectly modelled part.

Tilt the model 30–45° relative to the build plate. Reduces surface area per layer and FEP peel force.
Place surfaces with the most detail facing up — layers that form away from the FEP are better defined.
Avoid flat surfaces parallel to the build plate. They create enormous suction when the FEP separates.
Use Auto-Orient as a starting point but always review — the algorithm doesn’t know which surface matters most to you.

Never print flat directly on the build plate

Unless the part is completely flat and small, printing “flush to the plate” without tilting is the most common cause of mid-print failures. Always tilt + add supports.

Step 2 — Configure supports

CHITUBOX shadow view to detect overhangs — Shadow/detail view shows which areas are floating — red zones are islands that always need support

Enable shadow mode to visually see which zones are floating in mid-air. Red zones are floating islands — all of them need support, no exceptions.

Parameter	Recommended value	Purpose
Raft height	3–5 mm	Space to insert spatula when removing the print
Tip diameter	0.2–0.4 mm	Smaller mark on part; thinner = more fragile
Mid diameter (body)	0.8–1.2 mm	Mechanical strength of the support
Base diameter	1.5–2.5 mm	Solid adhesion to the build plate

The support workflow we use at 3Dwork

1. Generate Auto Support. 2. Review manually: remove unnecessary ones, add on red islands the auto missed. 3. Zoom in on fine-detail zones — sometimes auto places supports on important surfaces. Move them.

Step 3 — Hollow and drain holes

For large parts, hollowing saves 70–80% of resin. Go to Support → Hollow.

Wall thickness: 1–2 mm for decorative figures, 2–4 mm for functional parts.
At least 2 drain holes — one at the bottom and one at the top. Without them, uncured resin gets trapped.
Minimum diameter: 3–4 mm for standard resins, 5–6 mm for dense resins.
Use the cross-section view to confirm no sealed chambers remain.

Step 4 — Configure slicing parameters

CHITUBOX slicing parameters panel — The parameters panel — this is where it all happens. A bad config here ruins even the best-prepared print

The most important panel in CHITUBOX. A bad configuration here ruins perfectly oriented and supported prints. See the full parameter guide below.

Step 5 — Anti-aliasing

In the parameters tab, “AA” section. 3Dwork values: Level 2 / Gray Level 1 / Image Blur 2. On for the model, off for supports (they need sharp edges for max mechanical strength).

Step 6 — Slice and preview

Click Slice. When done, review the layer-by-layer preview:

Look for layers with very little contact area with the previous layer.
Verify that red-flagged islands have support.
Check the first 10 layers — the raft should appear clean and solid.

Step 7 — Save and transfer to the printer

Export the file in your printer’s format or use direct LAN transfer:

Connect the printer and PC to the same network.
In CHITUBOX: click Send to Printer.
Select your printer and send. No USB, no SD card needed.

LAN transfer is available in Basic

No paid tier needed to send over the network. Available in Basic for all Wi-Fi or Ethernet-compatible printers on the same LAN.

Slicing parameters: the definitive guide

Layer height

Thickness	Best for	Relative time
0.03 mm	Maximum detail: jewellery, miniatures	Very slow — ~3× vs 0.05
0.05 mm	Standard — best quality/speed balance	Reference
0.08 mm	Quick prototypes, functional parts	Faster
0.10 mm	Maximum speed — noticeably lower quality	~2× faster

Always start at 0.05 mm

Universal starting point. Only go to 0.03 when the model genuinely requires it. 0.08 or 0.10 only makes sense for prototypes where surface quality doesn’t matter.

Exposure times

Bottom layers

Number of bottom layers: 4–6 layers.
Bottom exposure time: 25–40 seconds.
Too low → print won’t stick. Too high → elephant foot (first layers flare outward).

Transition layers

Gradual bridge between high bottom exposure and normal exposure. Formula: bottom time ÷ normal time = approximate transition layers. Example: 35 s ÷ 2 s = ~17 transition layers. Without them you’ll see marks on the part.

Normal exposure time

Screen type	Typical range	Starting point (0.05 mm)
Monochrome (most modern printers)	1.5–4 s	2 s
RGB (pre-2021 models)	6–12 s	9 s

Underexposure signs: layers separating, holes in solid zones, very fragile parts.

Overexposure signs: lost fine detail, oversized dimensions, holes closing up.

Lift and retract speeds

Lift distance: 5–8 mm. Enough to peel the layer without disturbing the print.
Lift speed — TSMC mode: slow initial mm + faster for the rest. Most reliable for large surface area prints.
Rest time after retract: 0–1 second normally. Increase for dense resins or low temperature.

Resin temperature affects everything

Below 20°C resin becomes noticeably more viscous. The same rest time that works in summer may be insufficient in winter. If prints start failing for no obvious reason, check the temperature before changing anything else. Most resins perform best between 25–35°C.

Anti-aliasing

Anti-aliasing Level: 2
Gray Level: 1
Image Blur: 2
On for the model. Off for supports (sharp edges = greater mechanical strength).

Settings by resin type

Resin type	Normal exposure (0.05 mm)	Notes
Standard resin	1.5–3 s (mono) / 7–10 s (RGB)	Most versatile — compatible with 90% of models
ABS-like / Tough	2–4 s (mono)	Higher mechanical strength. May need more exposure
Water-washable	1.5–2.5 s (mono)	Wash with warm water at 60–70°C. Never cold water
Flexible (TPU-like)	3–6 s (mono)	Needs slower lift speeds
High temperature	3–5 s (mono)	Requires more intense post-curing

Water-washable resins are NOT safer

A very common myth. They can contain more irritating compounds than standard resins, not fewer. Water just replaces IPA for washing. PPE (gloves, mask, goggles) is equally mandatory.

Calibration: the exposure test is mandatory

Factory values are a starting point, never the end result. Every printer + resin + temperature combination is different. An exposure test with each new resin saves hours of troubleshooting.

Cone Test (TableFlip Foundry v3): most widely used. Starting point: 3 s mono / 9 s RGB. Free on Printables.
MCC Test (J3D-Tech): more comprehensive, also tests lift parameters. 4 bottom layers, 3 transition, 2 s rest time.
RERF (Anycubic): built into many Anycubic printers’ firmware. Most convenient if you have an Anycubic.

Anycubic reference values (0.05 mm)

Model	Bottom	Normal
Photon Mono M7 Pro	25 s	1 s
Photon Mono M5S Pro	30 s	2.5 s
Photon Mono M5S	25 s	2 s
Photon Mono X 6Ks	20 s	2.5 s
Photon Mono X2	20 s	1.5 s

Official Anycubic values for 0.05 mm — starting point, not final values

CHITUBOX Manager: manage your printers over the network

ChituManager is a free companion app that installs from within CHITUBOX. It lets you control and monitor your printers over the network without being physically in front of them.

CHITUBOX Manager — printer list with real-time status — ChituManager shows the status of all your printers from a single panel

How to install ChituManager

Open CHITUBOX and click the ChituManager icon in the top-right corner.
If not installed, the “Download and Install” button appears.
Download (~150 MB) and install with the wizard. Default path is correct.
ChituManager opens as a standalone application.

What you can do with ChituManager

CHITUBOX Manager — detailed printer status and information — FEP usage count, LCD screen usage time and real-time print status

Real-time monitoring: status of each printer (offline, standby, printing, completed, paused).
Remote file transfer: send files without USB. Max ~8 MB/s transfer speed.
Remote control: start, pause or cancel prints from your PC.
Hardware usage data: FEP use count and LCD screen hours — know when to replace components.
Print history: full log with times and results.
Camera monitoring: if your printer has a camera, watch prints live and enable auto time-lapse.

Requirement: same local network

Printer and PC must be on the same LAN. Wi-Fi from the same router or wired — both on the same router. Doesn’t work across different networks.

ChituManager manages printers, it doesn’t slice

You still need CHITUBOX to prepare and generate the file. ChituManager lets you send it and control it without leaving your desk.

Common errors and how to fix them

Print won’t stick to the build plate

Most likely cause: bottom exposure too low or build plate not level.
Fix: increase bottom exposure by 5 s. If it still fails, re-level the build plate.
Just changed resin? Times change with every resin — run an exposure test.

Print detaches mid-print

Cause: too much contact surface per layer → high FEP peel force.
Re-orient the model to reduce maximum surface area per layer.
Add more supports on high-area layers.
Reduce initial lift speed (enable TSMC).

Elephant foot

Reduce bottom exposure time by 5 s or reduce bottom layer count from 6 to 4. Add transition layers.

Lost fine detail

Overexposure. Reduce normal exposure time by 0.2–0.5 s and retest.

Cured resin stuck to FEP

Remove with a plastic spatula. Never metal — it scratches the FEP.
Filter the vat with a disposable paint filter to recover clean resin.

Don’t print with cured resin on the FEP

Printing over cured FEP residue destroys the LCD screen within a few sessions. 2–3 minutes cleaning prevents an 80–150€ repair.

Very fragile print

Underexposure or insufficient post-curing. Increase normal exposure 0.2–0.5 s and cure properly (2–5 min in UV station, rotating halfway).

FEP film maintenance

Type	Light loss	Durability	Speed
Standard FEP	1.5–5.4%	Low	Variable
nFEP / PFA (127 µm)	~5%	~60,000 layers	Medium
ACF (300 µm)	~7%	~30,000 layers	Fastest

Replace when prints fail more than usual or the surface is opaque/scratched.
Optimal tension: 275–350 Hz. Measure with a guitar tuner app.
Clean the vat with 95%+ IPA after every session.

Post-processing: washing and curing

IPA 99%: two washes (dirty + clean), 2–5 min with agitation.
Water-washable: warm water 60–70°C. Dry completely before curing.
Curing: 2–5 min in UV station. Rotate halfway. Don’t over-cure — it makes the part brittle.

Cure before sanding or painting

Partially uncured resin is still reactive. Sanding without full cure creates reactive particles in the air. Always cure before sanding.

Safety: what you cannot ignore

🧤 Nitrile or silicone gloves — always. Latex doesn’t protect well enough.
😷 Activated carbon filter mask — surgical masks don’t filter resin vapours.
🥽 Safety goggles — in case of splashes.
💨 Active ventilation — never in enclosed spaces.
🗑️ Waste: cure any liquid residue under UV and dispose as solid waste.

Compatible file formats

Basic/Advanced import: STL, OBJ, 3MF
Pro import: also STEP, IGES, 3DM, GLB, GLTF, DAE, IFC, JT
.ctb — universal format (Elegoo, Creality, Phrozen and many more)
.goo — Elegoo Mars 4, Saturn 4 and recent models
.photon / .pws / .pm3 / .pm5 — Anycubic Photon series
.cxdlp — Creality HALOT
.prz — current Phrozen models

Compatible printers and our reviews

CHITUBOX supports over 200 resin printer models. These are the ones we’ve reviewed in depth at 3Dwork:

Anycubic

Anycubic Photon P1 — dual VAT, 14K, Wave Release. The most innovative of 2026
Anycubic Photon Mono 4 Ultra — 10K resolution, 7″ monochrome screen
Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Pro — built-in heater, high speed
Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Max — huge build volume (298×164×300 mm)

Elegoo

Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra 16K — the best large-format MSLA available
Elegoo Saturn 4 — speed, precision and reliability
Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra — the best budget MSLA of 2025

Phrozen, Creality, NOVA3D and more

Also fully compatible: the entire Phrozen Sonic range, Creality HALOT-ONE / MAGE / RAY, NOVA3D Whale series and the entire Voxelab range. If your printer is from an established brand, its profile is included.

CHITUBOX vs alternatives

Slicer	Price	Best for	Drawback
CHITUBOX Basic	Free	All levels, maximum printer compatibility	Advanced features require subscription
Lychee Slicer	Free / $4.99/mo Pro	Better UX, built-in AI support	Slightly heavier
UVtools	Free / Open Source	Advanced analysis of sliced files	Not a full slicer
Formware 3D	Paid	Dental and industrial	High price, very niche

For most users: start with CHITUBOX Basic. If you want better UX or AI support placement, try free Lychee. UVtools is a complement, not a replacement.